Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. I've built already like 4 slightly modded triangles in the past, but original has something that those clever copies can't seem to capture. Now that one is awesome. I am currently also building the Green Russian (completely different soundwise). (a tip on getting a great sound, a cool site, a video, or whatever?) and I think I've maybe some off-board wiring in the wrong place...going to test it first and failing that will re-build it with your off-board layout. Great layout, thanks as always! It needs to stay as it is.If you want to draw and publish it, go ahead. wire named "Tone 2" gets soldered to the middle lug of the pot that will be used for the tone control). That kind of leads to--Question 2: I used Linear pots before the discussion led to an update for Log pots. Hi,4 years After but i Have The same issue. Looking at a potentiometer from the bottom, you have from left to right, lugs 3, 2 and 1. There is room for it under the input transistor. Last one for today: This sounded as close to the original as I can recall! That's the 4n cap in the layout that is setting the mids. Am I interpreting this incorrectly? I tried losing the switch and tried another pot, but still the same. Can both top and bottom grounds on the board go to the same place ie output jack ground or DC socket ground? Hey all, sorry for maybe a dumb question, but am I reading it right that if you'd like to omit the mids switch and have it no effect on a circuit one should put a 4n7 cap between Sw1 and Tone 3 ? As far as the effect goes, it's brilliant. I won't verify it today, but will definitely build it at some point...+m. Just leave the switch out and do not add any caps. All the switch does is put additional caps in parallel with the 4n cap in the middle of the board, and so change the frequency response of the tone control. Please don't publish anything interesting tonight... :), Ha ha, ok you've done your job for today I won't tempt you with any more layouts today.Unless you want a Black Russian as well? May as well add this one as well while I've got the template out and mirosol has his soldering iron out! Yup. BMPs are loud as f, so you must have something wrong. Also when I roll back the sustain knob it seems to clean the signal up totally and then eventually cut the volume, on my retail unit the sustain knob just cuts back the gain a little, but even a it's lowest setting it's still pretty gritty, with the triangle's sustain set to zero it literally kills the signal. V1 "PERF BOARD" TRIANGLE BIG MUFF PI - This is where it all started. I've it built but can only get the bypassed signal working so far (grr!) Come join the. I'm off work in about 3 hours and all I can think about is getting home and opening that sucker up to monkey with it.Do the two wires (one from the board and one from the switch) going to Tone Lug 3 sound correct to you? Could I ad an pulldown resistor to this layout without messing anything up? In October 2003, Dan Coggins (formerly of Lovetone) released his first commercial pedal under the Dinosaural brand, called the Tube Bender.... Not all these layouts are verified and some are put together from unverified schematics. Dubbed the Triangle Big Muff because of the layout of its Volume, Sustain and Tone controls, this is the one that started it all. An early perf board version from late 1969-early 1970 of the original Bob Myers/Mike Matthews circuit design, with some point-to-point wiring. I'm just trying to get my head around what could be happening.The way you describe the connection is right, but I can't see how that could affect the tone pot which will always pan between a low pass and a high pass filter no matter what position the switch is in. It's just for reverse polarity protection. From Schematic to Stripboard September 2012 © Updated 23rd September 2012 A lot of people have asked... A few people have commented on posts asking about offboard wiring. The thing works only with the Sustain pot fully clockwise. I socketed the transistors, so I'm going to switch to the others and see if I get much difference in the upper end of my volume spectrum.I *LOVE* the sound I'm getting with the 2N5133s, though, so if the others don't sound equally great, I might try and wire a very basic boost into the pedal.......unless someone here has a quicker and easier way for a Neophyte, such as myself. Planning on building a Vox Percussion, Seamoon Funk Machine, Phase 45, and a Little Angel Chorus in the near future :). Most BMPs use the same basic circuit and still they have log/lin pots in some versions.Since your tone pot and scoop switch don't work at all, i'm fairly convinced that you have something wrong with your build. Dubbed the Triangle Big Muff because of the layout of its Volume, Sustain and Tone controls, this is the one that started it all. The 1K resistor that Sustain 1 connects to means that the signal can never be fully dumped to ground, and so it should never go silent at full counter clockwise rotation. Dig it, now you can rock EHX in our new heavy-duty black hoodie! i see in many big muff schematics that all pots are LOG why did you choose linear pot? The stock setting is present with the on-off-on switch in middle position. Nope. If you don't have 4n cap available, then use 3n9 or 4n7 in there and leave the switch out compeletely.+m, Hi, the bitbox kit has arrived.Can I follow the pattern or are there any mistakes? Yep, I've never made a muff that wouldn't make my ears bleed if I dimed the volume, so if any muff circuit is struggling to reach unity or only marginally getting there then you know there is an issue somewhere with the build. hi guys, so i scored a batch of 2n5133 transistors if you are interested email me Hehe - funny not fanny... Unintensional muff humour. Hello everyone, years ago I made the "green muff" from this schematic: but I would like to add the mid switch, should I modify something on the board I have or should I wire the switch normally (mid left of the switch to the tone pot lug 3 and mid right to the bypass switch 1) without doing anything else?, thanks!. Here are a few easy ways to stay informed on the latest news from Electro-Harmonix... Have a question, comment, suggestion? TRIANGLE BIG MUFF PI Congratulations on your purchase of the Triangle Big Muff. Also, the Tone pot doesn't seem to have any audible effect. Hi guys, I just bought all the bits for this but I'm unsure how to wire the pots into the circuit board. The VOLUME pot seems to work fairly normally.The SUSTAIN pot does a little bit to clean the fuzz when turning down from about 10 to 8, maybe 7, but after that basically functions like a volume control.The TONE pot doesn't seem to do anything.Does this sound like an LIN vs. LOG issue to you folks?I would have happily switched them out and tested this, but as I've just recently gotten into pedal building, I didn't have the spare pots around to play with.Thanks for any advice you can offer. Specialty Traders is an Authorized Electro-Harmonix Dealer!Electro-Harmonix EHX Triangle Buff Big Muff Pi Reissue Distortion Guitar Effect PedalNewWe have reissued the original Version 1 Big Muff and it’s dripping with vintage Electro-Harmonix DNA and tone. That could also fit your description...+m, Thanks! I built this today with the mids switch omitted. I though about modding it, but... No. It's super loud and articulate. thank you guys your layouts are fantastic! I can't remember which schematic this was done from. There are a few Muffs that used log pots, but going off the schematics found on the kitrae Big Muff web site this one didn't. I'm thinking I might have it connected up wrong.In the layout, you've got both the "Tone 3" wire from the board going to Tone Lug 3 and the middle left lug of the switch going to Tone Lug 3. The new Triangle Big Muff is a faithful re-creation of the original circa 1969 circuit now housed in a pedalboard friendly, die-cast chassis. This is just a mod to get more options on the tonestack, as many people think that the BMP mids are too extremely scooped.Anyway, it's an optional mod you can avoid if you don't want / meed it.BR. Easily :)Up to 21 columns wide is doable in 1590B.+m. Currently I have the White wire (labeled Switch 1, right side of board, third wire from the top) going to the Right Middle Switch Lug.


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